9.22.2008

The Road Not Taken



The events of the past couple of weeks have passed by in a blur of days and activity. With Miriam’s last day in the office having come and gone, Liz and I have been left to our own devices. My compiled list of all the tasks I have to complete filled about three printed pages, so I have had no problem finding things to keep me busy. Callum, along with Liz’s help, has been writing a proposal for the healthcare component of the program. This document will be submitted to an organization in the United States this week, and we hope they will agree to fund a pilot of the program, to be followed later by a full implementation. Following this submission, Callum will begin working on a plan for the dioceses of Atlanta and Virginia, which Bishop Mdimi will take to the United States when he travels there in October. The work of The Carpenter’s Kids seems to be constantly evolving and expanding, and it’s been great to witness these changes.

One of the big events in the diocese this week was Synod, which is a yearly meeting of all the priests of the diocese. For the past few years, however, there hasn’t been enough money available to hold the convention, and therefore this year marked the first Synod in three years. Pastor Noah, the director of The Carpenter’s Kids, is also a parish priest at a church in Dodoma. He spent the week in Mvumi (about one hour outside Dodoma) at Synod, and we hoped at some point that he would have a chance to address the group about the program. As the schedule was very tight we were unsure whether this would be a possibility, but Noel and I nevertheless prepared a Power Point presentation with photos I had taken at villages and information about the program. On Wednesday afternoon, Pastor Noah called to tell us there was a chance we would be given a brief amount of time later that evening, and that he would like the whole staff to come to Synod to be present for this. So, after spending almost a full day in the office, Liz, Noel, Mmoti, John, Callum, Daudi, John Joseph (the CK driver), and I set out on the hour drive to Mvumi. After waiting around for about four hours for all the priests to assemble at their nightly meeting, we entered the convention hall and were seated in front of 600 people. This large group included all of the diocesan parish priests in addition to one other member from each parish, as well as the head staff of the diocese which included Bishop Mdimi. We were luckily given time to give a brief presentation, and therefore we were all required to introduce ourselves. Liz and I have become quite accustomed to giving our short intros in Swahili in the villages, but doing it in front of 600 people was intimidating to say the least! Callum read out his introduction which the guys in the office had helped him write earlier that afternoon. As always, however, the group was very appreciative – and somewhat surprised – at our use of the language, especially after Pastor Noah told them we’d only been here for a short time. After Pastor Noah’s brief summary of the program, Bishop Mdimi elaborated greatly upon the background and benefits of the program. He is one of the few bishops in Tanzania who accepts help from the Episcopal Church of the United States, and most other bishops refuse this connection due to the issues of homosexuality and the ordaining of women. Bishop Mdimi is a very knowledgeable and forward-thinking man, and it was wonderful to hear him speak so generously of both the United States and of The Carpenter’s Kids Program. After the presentation the staff finally headed home, arriving back in Dodoma about eleven p.m. We were exhausted and weary from the long day, but renewed in our pride for The Carpenter’s Kids.

I am finding one of the more challenging aspects of being here is the environment in which I work. I have come to realize from past work experience that I am definitely not an “office worker”, and I am much more suited for work “in the field”. Put me in a hospital or a retail store (both of which I have experienced) and I’m fine, but put me in an office, and I tend to get exasperated fairly quickly. The office also seems to grow infinitely warmer with each passing day, which doesn’t ease the situation in the slightest. I am finding my wonderful colleagues to be a blessing, as without them I’m not quite sure I’d be able to make it through the day! Part of the difficulty of this situation comes from the fact that I entered into this experience thinking it would give me a break between school and getting a job, and in essence what I have done is come to Africa and started a job! This is not to say that I’m not enjoying the work that I’m doing – because I most definitely am – but I will say that I look forward to our Saturdays in the villages, which are hands down my favorite part of the week. Just yesterday we visited the villages of Chiuftuka and Chibelela, both of which were quite a distance from Dodoma. It was a first-time distribution at Chifutuka, and it quickly became clear that Liz, Ainsley (a visitor from Australia), and I were the first white people these villagers had ever seen! While we are used to the attention that Wzungu receive in Dodoma and in other towns of Tanzania, I don’t think we were quite prepared for the spectacle we became in this village. The children were all very excited at our being there, and everyone – adults included – was constantly lining up to have their photos taken. It was possibly the first time they had seen a camera as well, and seeing themselves on the digital screen was a source of endless entertainment. As always we were warmly welcomed, our imperfect (though improving!) Swahili was regarded with surprise and applaud, and John was even presented with the gift of a chicken – which then rode with us inside the Land Rover for the remainder of our journey. Overall it was quite an interesting day!

The Ex-Pat community in Dodoma is quite large, and I am always somewhat surprised upon walking around town to see Wzungu whom I have never seen before. Part of this is because it seems as though the people here are constantly changing. There are always new people arriving, people leaving, and people visiting, so there is ample opportunity to meet new volunteers like myself. I have enjoyed spending time with everyone I’ve met so far, and the people in our compound are no exception. Our compound is made up of 8 apartments, two of which were empty until just this week, and the rest of which are lived in by Ex-Pats. Aside from Liz and I there is Leane, who lives two doors down from me and teaches at the CAMS school across the road. She is from New Zealand and is the mother of two college-aged boys (they will be visiting for a month or so in November, so she is very excited about that!), and she plans on being here long term, meaning 8 to 10 years. She has been a wonderful friend to both Liz and I, and it has become somewhat of a ritual to have dinner with her in the courtyard on Thursday nights. Another apartment is occupied by Catherine, who is also from New Zealand and teaches at the school. She too, has been very helpful, and always extends an offer for us to tag along when she’s heading to town. KuSum, who is from India, is another one of our neighbors. She is doing research on neonatal and maternal deaths, and she is usually very busy with her work. Her husband is currently in Vietnam on work business, and I think she is finding it hard to be away from him. She came and chatted with me the other night and began talking about how her husband keeps telling her she should leave her job here so they could be together. She said that as appealing as that option sounded, she could not just leave her work. She said, “Though you may want to, you can't run away from life. It will always haunt you to fail. You'll regret it for the rest of your life.” Her words really struck a chord with me, and I keep reminding myself of them. Even though sometimes I may find it difficult to be here, and there will be times that I’ll want to pack up and come home, I know that I would be disappointed in myself for doing so, and I’m not sure whether that is something I’d be able to forget. Another apartment is occupied by Corey, who works at the hospital in Mvumi. She only lives here on the weekends, and I think have only seen her once in the month and a half that I’ve been here! The other two apartments, which had been empty, are now occupied by two 21-year-old girls from Holland. They just arrived on Tuesday and will be here for five months. They are speech therapy students and will be working at the school for the deaf as the final part of their studies. The two of them joined Liz, Leane, and I for our weekly dinner, and they are both very sweet girls. It will be nice having a few more young people here to hang out with! Liz will be moving out of her apartment in about three weeks and into Miriam’s apartment at the lower compound. It will be strange not having her ten steps outside my door, but at least she’ll only be about a five minute walk away. I believe that Peter – a teacher from the U.S. returning for his second trip – will then move into Liz’s apartment. There’s no telling who will come and go around here, but it’s nice to be surrounded by such a wonderful group of people.

Some of my most enjoyable moments of the past week have been centered around a usually unenjoyable engagement for me – running. I ran cross country and track all through high school and have since attempted to continue this habit, but the truth is that I usually hate every minute of it. I perform this dauntless task for no other reason than without it I feel lazy, but my dedication to the sport ebbs and flows with great inconsistency. I’ve done a bit of a better job here, and for a time I was doing my running in the late afternoons. The increasing heat and my tiredness after work have provided two good excuses to talk myself out of going, however, and thus I regrettably dragged myself out of bed before work on a couple occasions last week to get it over and done with. While I had been running a loop consistent with our daily walks to the office – into town on the main road and returning home on the back roads, with maybe a few loops around the school thrown in – on one of these mornings I decided to head south of our compound and in the opposite direction of town. Less than five minutes after heading out, the paved road quickly gave way to the dusty and rock-strewn roads typical of Dodoma, and a clustering of mud brick houses lined the periphery. I continued on this path for a while towards one of the mountains of craggy rocks which seem to enclose the town, passing men, women, and children on their way to work and school. I usually receive a substantial number of odd looks – as people’s diets and lifestyles leave little need for exercise in Tanzania – and a variety of greetings to most of which I know the appropriate responses. At one point I decided it was a time to walk for a bit, and not long after I was joined by a little girl of seven or eight who had emerged from one of the houses along the path. Due to my small repertoire of Swahili and hers of English, we quickly exhausted the little information we could extract from each other, and thus were left to simply walk side by side. Monica – as I discovered was her name – took my hand, not seeming to mind that we’d met mere seconds before, and it was like this that she and I walked together, not saying a word. We came to a point and decided to turn around, and in passing back by her house she indicated that she wanted me to come with her. I was a little apprehensive about this, as I wasn’t sure whether we’d encounter her parents – who would surely wonder why their daughter had brought a strange Wzungu to their home – but nevertheless I went with her. I timidly set foot into the dirt floors and walls of her living room, and soon realized that no one else was home. I was able to gather from Monica that her parents were at work and she was left home alone, as she did not go to school. She encouraged me to sit in one of the upholstered chairs, and she disappeared behind one of the three curtained doorways of the small house. She came back with paper in hand, which she proudly handed over to me. The papers were letters from her pen pal, a girl named Zoe from Colorado, and she insisted that I read each one of them. It was clear from the dates that these letters had been written years ago, and I wondered whether this correspondence still continued or whether she had safely stowed these crumpled letters as one of her few possessions. It made me feel guilty about the child a friend and I had sponsored through World Vision in middle school. After receiving only one letter in many months we had decided that $22 per month was too much to spare from our babysitting allowances, and thus abandoned our African pen pal. After a few more minutes I indicated to Monica that I had to go to work, and while she was intently trying to communicate something to me in Swahili, I reluctantly had to say goodbye and leave her without understanding a word she said. I told her that maybe one day I would come visit her again, and I hope that a future running journey will enable me to do so. I was touched by the simplicity and the warmth we had shared in our short time together, and I couldn’t help but feel a little bounce in my step and smile on my face as I headed towards home.

After going to church this morning and then spending a few lazy hours poolside at the Dodoma Hotel, I decided yet again that I should probably go on a run. Despite the fact that it was the hottest time of the day, I knew that whenever a running urge strikes I have to snatch it up, else it disappears as quickly as it came. The extreme heat brought about the rebellion in me, however, and for once I decided to cast aside the spandex Under Armor pants that I had taken to wearing under my running shorts. It had been instilled in us that modesty is of utmost importance here, and shorts are seen to be inappropriate. It was my logic, however, that running was a different story, and if the Olympic photos on the front pages of the paper were any indication, then even Tanzanians knew that people exercise in shorts! So, I set out – barelegged and all – and headed out to search for a route which Callum had told me about. I seemed to receive no more or less unusual looks from passersby, so I convinced myself that the shorts were obviously not too terrible of a thing! I ran for a while before I found the turn-off Callum had described which apparently led to a large water hole. I began my trek down the small and very rural footpath, and was immediately in awe of the landscape around me. I imagine that my surroundings were very similar to what you would find in Arizona, though I have never been to this part of the United States. Everything had a slightly orange tint from all the dust, and the leafless foliage, unusual shaped trees, and craggy hills lent a very desert-like feel to the landscape. I continued along the path, my only company being goats and cows, who would begin trotting along at my approach, leaving a dusty wake for me to follow. At one point I climbed a small hill and saw the “water hole” below me. My vantage point afforded me a great view, and what I saw around me was a beautiful sight. Children and animals alike were seeking respite from the midday sun by swimming in the water, and a few older boys were lounging on the banks. I continued to follow the trail which swung in a wide arc around the water, and after exchanging a few greetings with the children swimming, headed back towards the road. When I was almost back into town I took the opportunity to stop and talk to a few women who had greeted me in English on my way past the first time. One of the women said she had lived in Pennsylvania while her husband was in school there, and we talked for a bit about what I was doing in Dodoma. I took this opportunity to ask (as she was a Tanzanian who spoke very good English) whether the shorts I was wearing were a bad thing. Her reply gave me much relief, as she explained that in normal life yes, shorts are bad, but that they are fine for exercising. I was grateful for her advice, as well as for the conversation, which provided a short break from my laborious running in the intense heat! I was reminded of cross country days in high school when we would gather to run in the almost unbearable heat of August in Georgia. This time, however, I was glad that stopping to walk cast only disappointment upon my own conscience, and there were no coaches there to frown at my lack of endurance. Though I arrived home exhausted and dripping with sweat, I realized that I actually had enjoyed my run. It has become clear that discovering things on foot and straying from my normal path is the best way to experience things. On both of these excursions I have been blessed – whether it be by the company of a sweet little girl or by having the beautiful landscape of Africa lain before me– and as Robert Frost wrote in his famous poem, “I took the [road] less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.”

This past month and a half has presented me with many new roads down which to travel. I’ve encountered road blocks and many a pot hole, but now and then I find one which has the smooth ride of a newly paved road. I’m trying to take all these things in stride, and I never know what will be waiting for me just around the next bend. Though I know I’ll continue to encounter minor bumps during my time here, I also know that each new road brings new joys as well, and they’ll help me find my way.

9.10.2008

Phone Number Edit

I got news that the phone number I posted on here didn't work, and I think I was missing some numbers. Here is the updated one:

011 255 787 599 511

9.09.2008

The World Wide Web

Well, I am writing this blog post from the comfort of my cozy African abode, meaning that I finally have internet! It's been a long month of using the unreliable internet in the office and racing against time and money in internet cafes, and I'm so relieved to finally have it at home. It's going to be a challenge reminding myself that every MB I download is costing me money, and the convenience of flat monthly rates does not exist here. I've spent quite a bit of time on here this evening doing various things, and I'm sure I've run down my prepaid credit quite a bit. I figure it's worth it though, and it puts it in perspective to think that I probably won't come close to spending on Internet per month what I did back home on clothes! I have finally posted pictures as well, and they can be viewed at http://picasaweb.google.com/sarahldailey. I hope you enjoy viewing them as much as I enjoyed taking them. I think Liz finds it humerous (and possibly somewhat annoying) that I often make her stop on our walks around town because I see something I want to take a picture of! I guess it's nice to know that no matter what my memory may forget over time, the pictures will be there to remind me.

Liz and I spent our days off this weekend painting the office, and I think everyone is hap
py with the results. We tediously painted the new Swahili logo on the door and on one wall of the office, and it definitely brightens up the room! Before I came to Africa I didn't expect to be spending so much time in an office. Now that I've realized I'll be there quite a bit, we're doing all we can to make it an enjoyable environment to work in. The next improvement might come in the form of a fan, as it's started to get very hot in the afternoons. It's strange that the weather is beginning to warm up here, whereas at home the opposite will be happening in a month or so. Although I usually hate the cold of winter, I might find that I'll miss it this year!

I have officially had the first wedding proposal of my life, and let's just say that it wasn't all I'd hoped my first proposal would be! Liz and I were walking home from the office on Sunday when we were approached by a man. After introducing himself he bluntly explained that he was hoping to be married soon, and that he wanted to marry a white woman. His next sentence caught us a little off guard, as he said "Do you think that would be possible?" Liz and I quickly realized that he was wondering whether it would be possible to marry either one of us! Liz quickly explained that no, she wasn't going to be getting married anytime soon. With that, he turned to me and said, "Well maybe you will be the one I can have this conversation with." I explained that I was not looking to get married either, and we said goodbye and continued on our way. This conversation definitely provided us with some laughs, and I have remarked to Liz that we should have asked him how many cows he would have offered for us. Apparently it is common to offer livestock in exchange for a bride here, and the number and quality of animal is representative of how worthy the bride is seen to be. Miriam told us that she was once offered three cows, and I would have been curious to know how many of God's little creatures Liz and I would have fetched. Maybe next time we'll be prepared with questions of our own!

I finally got the recipe for the cake that Margaret, my housekeeper, makes. I thought I'd share it with you all! Though there's nothing African about it, it is just plain good, and worth the time to make! I haven't tried out the recipe myself yet - who needs recipes when I have a cook! - so you're on your own with this one!

MAMA MARGARET'S CINNAMON CAKE
Ingredients for cake:
- 2 cups flour
- 1 1/4 cups sugar
- 1 tsp salt
- 3 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 cup margarine
- 2 eggs

Ingredients for topping:
- 3 tbsp sugar
- 1 tbsp cinammon
- 1/2 tsp margarine

Mix cake ingredients together until smooth. Pour into a greased and floured cake pan. In a saucepan, combine the ingredients for the topping. Set on low heat and mix until small clumps are formed. Sprinkle on top of cake. Bake at 350 degrees for 30-45 minutes. Enjoy!

I hope that with my renewed connection with the rest of the world that I can be better about posting and replying to emails. It's hard to remember how we survived when the internet didn't exist, back when encyclopedias were the norm for referencing facts! It's amazing to reflect on how far the Western world has come in these past few decades, and being here makes you appreciate the convenience of our home so much more. This part of the world is still behind, and many people here don't even have access to running water, much less computers. I have to wonder when - if ever - technology and modern advances will reach the remote villages of Tanzania and other parts of the world, but there are so many more necessary things which need to come before this. Things we've never had to live without - running water, electricity - some of these people have never had. Hopefully the turtles of the world will eventually catch the hares, this time with no anomosity at the finish line.

9.05.2008

Day by Day

Written Thursday evening September 4, 2008

As of today I have officially been in Tanzania for one month, but I’m finding it a little difficult to come to terms with this fact. When I realize that I’ll only be here for a little over seven more months it seems as though this first one has gone by rather quickly; but on the other hand, it seems like one month is far too short to account for the time that has passed since I said my final goodbyes and boarded my plane in Atlanta. During my four years of college it was normal for a month to pass between visits to Gainesville to see family or friends who didn’t attend UGA, but with my hectic schedule of classes, work, and busy weekends, these months passed without much thought. Perhaps it was the fact that I always knew that I could drive home or to see friends at a moment’s notice which made these distances bearable. Being 9,000 miles across the globe puts a different perspective on things, and I am definitely finding it more difficult. The first UGA football game of the season was this past weekend, and though I never was a huge football fan by Georgia standards, I found myself wishing I could be there. You miss what you know you can’t have!

We have definitely settled into a routine now and I’m finding that the days are passing by quite quickly. Every morning Liz and I make the 15 minute walk to work, arriving in the office by about 8:30. We have been busy the past week and a half working with Miriam to learn what jobs we will take over from her when she leaves the office next week. It’s hard to believe that she has done all this work alone up to this point. There is quite a bit of work that Liz and I will be splitting, and we have both been assigned to our own areas of expertise – complete with flashy job titles. Liz is now the Program and Policy Development & Management Advisor. She will be in charge of the business side of the program. My title is the International Communications & Development Management Advisor, which pretty much means I am in charge of all forms of communication between the diocese and the parishes here, as well as with the supporting parishes in the U.S. I am also in charge of all of our graphic design, and I was happy to find that I could put my major in art to good use. I have already revamped the newsletter which we send out every month, and hope to get the August issue out within the next couple days. I also designed a Swahili version of the English logo which was designed some time ago, and I have begun implementing this into our publications. We’ve also been working on improving the condition of the office. I quickly set about rearranging the furniture, and Liz and I got rid of the ugly, ripped floor covering which was laid on top of the concrete. Though plain concrete floors don’t seem that appealing, believe me – it’s better than the alternative! I’m also planning to cover the bulletin boards with some of the great fabric which is sold here, and I am going to paint the new Swahili logo on the door and one of the walls. As Miriam says – I’m putting my mark on the office already!

Aside from the ten of us that work in the office on a daily basis, there are constantly people filing in and out, and it is usually pretty crowded. There is barely enough room for everyone to work, and Liz, Miriam, Callum, and I have been bringing our laptops to help ease this situation. About a quarter of our office space is currently occupied by mosquito nets and other supplies which are given out at the weekly distributions. We have plans to move these to make room for more workspaces. It will be much easier to get things done when we aren’t sitting on top of each other!


The many visitors which crowd the office each day are all here for various reasons. Many of these are Carpenter’s Kids and their guardians who have come to Dodoma to seek treatment for some illness. After they visit the clinic on the floor below us they come to the office to be reimbursed for their treatments. Although the healthcare division of the program is still being developed – Callum is currently working on this – we do have an Emergency Healthcare fund which these reimbursements come from. Medical treatment is very inexpensive here, but with the volume of children who come to our office for help, these costs add up quite quickly. It will be great when the Healthcare policy is up and running, and the dioceses of Atlanta and Virginia are ready to pitch in their support in this area.

We usually leave the office at about 4:30 and head home, after which I try to find things to fill up the rest of the day. I occasionally bring some work home to finish, though after already spending 8 hours in the office, this isn’t my favorite way of killing time. I’ve been trying to run most days, I’ve been reading quite a bit, and I’m quickly making my way through Liz’s DVD collection. A combination of tiredness and having nothing to do usually has me in bed by 11pm, which is much earlier than I’m used to. I’m glad to have finally settled into a day to day routine, and it’s something I’ve been waiting for since I arrived. It’s clear to me now that Liz and I will have our work cut out for us, and I know that there are many things which wouldn’t be done without us here to take over for Miriam. There are so many things which contribute to the running of The Carpenter’s Kids, much of which I am not even aware of yet. It will be interesting to see how Liz and I cope without Miriam’s guidance, but I know we’ll figure it all out eventually. The guys in the office are busy with their own tasks, but they are always willing to lend a helping hand as well.

The church situation is one that Liz and I are having a little difficulty adjusting to. Before I left I expected church to be the one thing which would be familiar about my life here, but I’m finding that this is not the case. The Anglican cathedral holds three services on Sundays, two of which are in Swahili and one which is in English. We have been attending the English service lately, but as I mentioned before it is much different than what I’m used to. Everything that I like about the Episcopalian method of worship is taken to the opposite extreme. The traditional hymns are replaced with contemporary songs displayed on a Power Point presentation, and Liz and I have started referring to this as “Happy Clappy Music”. Whereas at home I can almost recite word-for-word what part of the service my father is coming to next, the service here follows no distinct pattern. Even the Bible readings are edited to include more modern language, and the prayers I’ve had memorized since childhood have words omitted or changed. The English congregation does not have a priest, and the service is led by several missionaries. While there is absolutely nothing wrong with this style of worship - and I know that many denominations choose to worship in this way - I find it strays too far from what I consider ‘normal’ to be enjoyable. Church is meant to be a time of relaxation and reflection, but I find I spend this hour each Sunday slightly irritated and wondering when it will end. I guess being a Preacher’s Kid and attending church nearly every Sunday for my entire life has made me a true Episcopalian! Liz and I are considering attending the 7am Swahili service this week. We have been to this service once before, and though we can’t understand a word of the service, it somehow all makes sense. The service is led by actual priests who follow a set liturgy. The music during this service – though not traditional hymns - is beautiful, and when the congregation sings they sound like a trained choir. The church also has several youth choirs which sing throughout the service, and they are incredible as well. Though this service is different from anything I’ve ever experienced, the fact that it is a traditional African service makes it normal. Maybe if Liz and I can get ourselves to church by 7am we’ll become regulars at this service, though I’m sure we might be the only “Wazungu” there!

I received the sad news a couple days ago that Liz will be abandoning me in October to move about two blocks away to another CAMS compound. There are a few more missionaries coming to teach at the school, and Liz’s apartment has been promised to one of them. Liz will therefore move into Miriam’s old apartment when she returns to New Zealand. Aside from the fact that it will be strange not to have her next door, it also ruins our internet plans! We have been waiting for weeks for an internet provider in town to receive wireless routers from the U.S. Though their service is expensive to install, we were optimistic that we would have both been able to share one router, thus splitting the cost in half. They also charge a flat monthly rate, which is much better than the other providers in town. The service which most people use, a company called TTCL, is not wireless, and they do not charge a flat monthly rate. Their installation is less expensive, but they charge you by how many megabytes you download, which can add up quite quickly. It seems as though we now have no choice in the matter but to go through TTCL, and had we known this I could have had internet weeks ago! I will be calling them as soon as possible, so hopefully I won’t be without internet for too much longer. I feel extremely cut off from the rest of the world with our limited access, and I am very anxious to change that!

A lot has happened this past month, and I am grateful for all that I have seen and experienced thus far. I can only hope that the remainder of my time here continues to be as enriching, but I have no doubt that it will prove to be. I’m in a beautiful country surrounded by wonderful people, and I’m learning new things everyday. I could not ask for more.